-Bring a sharpie with tape spooled on it. Not only you can label your film but you can also use the tape to secure the film even more because sometimes the film's adhesive can wear off due to humidity.
-After the last frame, try spooling the camera's winder more to check for continous winding. This indicates that your camera back is safe to open.
-Also check the film counter to see what frame count you are on just to make sure you have used all frames before opening the film back.
-I highly suggest getting a Bay III filter for the taking and viewing lens for the Rolleiflex 2.8F. These cameras are not made anymore and are highly sought after by collectors and professionals. Putting a filter on not only protects the camera's lens but it also helps retain and increase the camera's value over time.
-I also suggest using a leather case to protect the sufrace and the paint of the camera. If you look at eBay, a very used one has paint chips on the winder side of the camera. Using a leather case not only protects the camera's paint from chipping but it also helps retain and increase the camera's value over time.
Loading film on a Rolleiflex 2.8F is very easy task but there are a couple of things to remember when loading film:
-Make sure you look at the counter and wind the film a couple of times since there might be exposed film still inside the Rolleiflex 2.8F
-Once you you put the film in the loading area make sure the film goes under the metal roller. I had a time where I loaded the film and I put the film over the metal bar. What happened next was that the film continued to keep on spooling and it did not stop and register the film at film counter.
I got to talk to Ken Hansen last week and I was planning to trade a camera for a Leica MP. After talking through email, he sent me a Leica MP Black Paint for me to test out for a week to see if I want to purchase it or not.
I received the package from New York to Texas within two days and I was very impressed that a Leica Dealer would let me initially test out the camera rather than have to purchase the camera first. I was very impressed with the quick shipment and was looking forward to the unboxing. I did a recording of the unboxing so that I can show people my first impressions and the raw reaction of seeing the Leica MP Black Paint for the first time.
I was very excited unboxing the camera and as soon as I held it in my hands I really felt something different from holding the Leica MP. I notice the heft of the weight as I lifted the camera up but I did not see any difference from the weight of the Leica M6. Maybe it was just holding the Leica MP for the very first time but I did not see any difference.
One of the things I noticed was how bright the viewfinder was compared to the Leica M6. Looking through the viewfinder, I felt that I was looking through very clean glass. Compared to the Leica M6, the Leica M6's viewfinder looked dim. Maybe I should send the camera for a finder restoration but I could still make images with the Leica M6 so I really did not see the need for using the Leica MP as of yet.
The film winder lever on the Leica MP was super smooth being new. It felt as if I was sliding my fingers through a well oiled machine and it made winding the film effortless. I had the same feeling of winding film when I first got my Leica M6 cleaned, lubricated and adjusted about one and a half years ago but through constant use, I might have to send it out for a CLA again.
Out in the field, the Leica MP is as responsive to me as the Leica M6. There are a couple things that I noticed that were different. The light meter on the MP felt a little better since you have the display on the Leica MP like this >0< . It felt as if I can make a better and sure exposures having the light meter like that rather than the Leica M6 but in the end both light meters are pretty good center weighted meters.
One thing that irked me with the Leica MP was the rewind knob, I really felt that I was winding the film slowly out in the field and I felt that I had to really rewind the film hard. I know that I can get a rewind knob after market parts to replace this problem but the replacement will cost me about two hundred dollars more. So I felt that even though they say that the Leica MP is stronger, I prefer the quickness of the Leica M6.
I felt that there is no need to purchase me a Leica MP yet. I felt that I could wait a little longer to get a Leica MP ala Carte and have the specific features that I want from both cameras. So till then I will be saving for a Leica MP ala Carte with the original leatherette, a faster rewind knob and a scriptless black paint body. That is just my preferrence but I do suggest a couple of things....
Another option that I suggest is go for a Leica M6. At this time, as of August 2012, a Leica M6 is about $1600 like new and a very used one goes for about $800 that you can take the camera later for a clean, lubricate and adjust at a reputable repairman like Sherry Krauter, DAG camera or Youxin Ye depending on how much you want to spend on repairs. After repairs, it will feel like new and make the same images as the Leica MP.
In the end, like I said on the video, both cameras light tight boxes. I would rather spend money on Leica glass rather than a new Leica body. You can also choose different cameras that have Leica M mounts and just put Leica glass on it. Or you can start like me when I bought the Leica M6 but opted for the Voitlander Nokton 35mm 1.4 until I could get a hold of Leica glass.
That is my opinion and if you have comments, suggestions or concerns let me know by commenting below and I will do my best to get back to you as soon as possible.
Caption: Never Let This Happen To You As A Buyer!
There are places on the internet where you can have someone find you a film camera online. But sometimes their fees can get expensive or become overpriced. So I decided to post a "Do It Yourself" article on how to find film cameras by yourself online. This is what I know and what I use to find film cameras online but if you have any suggestions,tips or techniques on how to find cameras please kindly comment down below.
Places To Find Cameras
-ShopGoodWill is a place where to find film cameras but sometimes cameras are not well taken cared for. So expect to have a camera repair fund. Expect to pay about $65-125 to get the camera repaired just in case the camera does not work.
-Jauce is a good place to find rare film cameras. The thing with Jauce is you are directly buying from the Japanese film market which is known to use a lot of film. Sometimes you can find items that are bid lower since they are spelled wrong. For example, type in Fijifilm, Leika, Kanon etc. etc. Just spell the name or brand wrong and see if something shows up on the seach.
-Ebay is another place to find deals. One important thing about eBay is to check out the Competed Listings button that is located at the bottom left side of the screen. The reason why you check Completed Listings is this is how you gauge how much the highest and lowest price the item in question is selling for. Another thing to look for are items that have a Return Policy. The reason why this is important is because you can test the item, inspect it, and have the option to return the item if something is wrong with it.
-Caringtransitions is a good place to find garage sales and estate sales locally. It also has a online store where you can check time to time if they have film cameras or not. The good thing about this site is that you can go get the zipcode of a good neighborhood in your area and see if they have cameras. Chances are they have film cameras that are not being used since the owner could have moved on to digital and let the film camera sit unused.
-Craiglist is a good place to deal locally. You can start by negotiating with the seller through emails online. Make sure they send you pictures of the item. But note that only do exchanges for goods face to face. I highly suggest not to meet in people's houses or have people come to your house. Remember not to do money transfers online, if the seller asks you to, leave the deal since it might be a scam. For safety reasons, always bring a friend to watch the deal. Only deal in heavy traffic areas ie. mall, places where there are a lot of people walking around, a coffee shop etc. etc. Watch out for sellers that have stories that they are out of town for six months or a year doing charity work and they will ship the package to you. Chances are it might be a scam.
-Etsy is a good place to find film cameras. Make sure you negotiate for a lower price and also spell brands and names of film cameras wrong, you might get a deal on a low traffic item.
-EstateSales.org is a good place to find directories of estate sales and garage sales. They have pictures so you can see ahead what is for sale. Also type in zipcodes of good neighborhoods so that you can find rare items or cameras that are not very well used. If you are looking for a Polaroids or any electronic cameras, make sure you bring batteries so that you can test the camera on the spot.
-EstateSaleDirectory and GarageSaleTracker are great places to find deals but it is a hit or miss when it comes to finding places to buy film cameras from.
Tips on Negotiating
You: What is the best price you can sell this item for me for?
Seller: blah blah blah
You: Is that the best price you can do?
Seller: blah blah blah
Note: Always ask for a lower price but do not lowball the seller. There is a threshold on the seller backing out on you if you lowball the seller. Lowballing is when you ask an unfair price for a item. Make sure you are happy and the seller is happy, that is just my opinion.
-Also let the seller give you a price first. Remember: "The one who gives out the numbers first, loses"
For example, The seller is selling an item for $400. If you say the numbers first like "I would like to buy this item for $375" The seller could have been willing sell it to you for $350. So negotiate wisely.
I hope you learned something today. If you have any question, comments, or suggestions feel free to comment below.